Showing posts with label Recoleta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recoleta. Show all posts

Of all the many sites and scenes to be discovered in Buenos Aires, the  recoleta cultural centre is/was the hub for Porteños plugged into the visual arts, now with the new Usina Arts Centre in La Boca, among others, this arty cultural hub has become one of the many spokes in the city's spinning art wheel.
Perhaps as interesting and inspiring as the many exhibitions, shows and concerts which frequent the centre, is the centre´s history.


Once upon a time the centre was a convent for monks of the 'Recoletan' order, but it has had many different uses over the last 200 years from its use as a jail of political detainees, quarter, asylum and hospital. The area of Recoleta was populated as a result of the epidemics in 1871 (of rage and yellow fever) that affected the richest families, forcing them to retire from their residences in the south towards the northern sectors. The definitive consolidation has its fact in the work of the intendant Torcuato de Alvear, who constructed the Alvear Avenue, quickly filled with sumptuous palaces. Using the ground of the excavations of what is now Puerto Madero (ironically perhaps known by some as new Recoleta, however I prefer'little Dubai' as the square meterage ranges from USD10-15000sqmtr), they were able to fill up the lowlands, building parks and greens and transforming the swamps into (one) of the most elegant zones of the city.
The staue on the right makes reference to the famous "Don Quijote". Perhaps deemed a little to abstract, this wierdly gangly statue has since been moved to Avenida 9 Julio...
95% or 5% do you know?



The General Carlos María de Alvear Monument This imposing equestrian monument, designed by the talented French artist Bourdelle, can be found in the corner of Posadas Street and Avenida Alvear. There is an interesting view of it from the old river embankment at the Recoleta.



The statue, which arrived from France in 1925, rests on a pedestal of polished granite, the work of the architect Alejandro Bustillo (1889-1982).


 Monking About

The zone owes its name to the Convent of the Recoletos Descalzos --"barefoot" misionaries-- (founded on 1716), community of the Recoletos Friars. These monks constructed their monastery on an already existing small farm, which name had been given after the abundance of a particular kind of tree in that zone: "the Ombúes" (This small farm was located within the land map distributed by Don Juan de Garay in 1583).








Posadas of Portugal in Buenos Aires


In Pousadas there is always a story or a secret to tell, a legend or a tradition to recount. It is no different in Buenos Aires. Along what is now the back of  Recoleta cemetary, was at one time where workers were housed in "pulperías" (cantins.) It is suggested that on the far-side of the cementary, alongside the slaughter houses and cart tracks amongst the sweated folds of the labouring river-side men, tango was born. The numbers were hugely in the womens favour back then and so men vying for other "favours" would queue and wait and the cat and mouse dance of seduction was born (as well as quite a few new Porteños no doubt.)

Posadas Street in Buenos Aires is one of the most sought after areas to own in Buenos Aires, and is nestled between Alvear Avenue and Figueroa, at the apex of these two most prominant street names is Posadas and Palais de Glace, now a gallery, but at time an elegant ice skating rink. I heard that an ice skating rink was reopened in Recoleta recently, but as yet I have been unsuccessful in finding it, so more on this soon..
Eventually though ice skating became less popular (although possibly not in its Paris name-sake,) but most definitely with tango elegantly side-stepping the slums and entering the more public arena and culture, the days of slippery fun were at an end, and replaced with stern side-glances and quick tango flourishes.

The Portuguese at one time were rivalled on the seas only by the English and the Spaniards, their cultural marks can be seen in many countries and with this reference to


About the Posadas de Portugal
The Posadas de Portugal had their origin in the 40's, when the first Regional Posadas were built to provide visitors with board and accommodation in keeping with the style and traditions of each region.

Photo courtesy of me! https://www.instagram.com/p/_sHX2-LZDy/?taken-by=raymondelee12

If the city of Buenos Aires is referred to as the Paris of South America then Recoleta is known as the Little Paris in Buenos Aires. Its  french style residences, large gardens, squares, fashionable hotels, museums as well as the restaurants and cafes gives this area a distinctive and special profile.
In terms of real estate, Recoleta is one of the most expensive areas in Buenos Aires. Many of its buildings are now considered as national monuments, such as the Duhau Palace, a Victorian style residence, the Anchorena Palace, seat of the Vatican Embassy in Argentina, the French and Brazilian Embassies, “Belle Époque” expressions that belonged to rich argentine families.
Background History 


After the war of the triple alliance where Argentina, Brasil and Uruguay fought Paraguay, there was a large influx of Italian immigrants to Argentina, who initially congregated in the poorer parts of the city.



 


 All this economic activity lead to a rapid growth in the population of Buenos Aires, so when Yellow Fever broke out in early 1871, the effect was devastating. Estimates of the death toll vary from 13 to 25 thousand victims.



At the height of the epidemic, so many people were dying every day that the Buenos Aires Northern Railway Company laid in a temporary branch-line to serve the new cemetery on farmland at Chacarita that had been hurriedly developed when the existing cemeteries could no longer cope.



Those who could afford it fled from the city to the camp to avoid the ravages of the disease. Rapacious landlords in the camp charged vast sums of money for accommodation, food and transport.
However there were many, especially the poor, who couldn't leave. As the municipal government had also fled the city, an official Comision Popular was set up to organise relief, but found itself unable to cope with all the demands made on it.
In order to alleviate the distress of the poorer members of the British community, H. G. MacDonnell, Chargé d`Affaires at the British Legation, took it on himself to organise assistance.
 He contacted the various clergymen of the Anglican, Presbyterian and Irish Catholic communities, and along with a newly arrived doctor co-opted for the purpose, set about providing medical and financial assistance to those in need.

Recoleta & the Birth of Tango


After the out-break of Yellow fever necessitated the relocation of many of the early settlers from La Boca to Recoleta the area that surrounds what is now the Recoleta cemetery and church  was once the hub of  life for Porteño riverside workers and thought by many to be the birthplace of the Tango.
 The odds at the time were in favor of the prostitutes, who were selective about with whom they sold their wares and so the provocative cat and mouse dance gave the men a chance to impress enough to address the issue of undressing.


 Other attractions include the Glass Palace which is now a gallery but in the 30´s was a popular place for the weel-heeled to ice-skate; The National Gallery, home to many important works both old and new; weekly férias (street fairs) and plenty of shopping.

The zone of Recoleta is now considered one of the most desirable addresses in Buenos Aires.

The Recoleta Cemetery





The monks of the Order of the Recoletos arrived in this area, then the outskirts of Buenos Aires, in the early eighteenth century.





 



 The cemetery is built around their convent and a church, Our Lady of Pilar (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Pilar), built in 1732. The order was disbanded in 1822, and the garden of the convent was converted into the first public cemetery in Buenos Aires.

 

The 1822 layout was done by architect and civil engineer Próspero Catelin,[5] who also designed the current facade of the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral. The cemetery was last remodeled in 1881, while Torcuato de Alvear was mayor of the city, by the Italian architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo.
 More on the cemetery at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Recoleta_Cemetery