Life in "The Zone"


Of all the many sites and scenes to be discovered in Buenos Aires, the  recoleta cultural centre is/was the hub for Porteños plugged into the visual arts, now with the new Usina Arts Centre in La Boca, among others, this arty cultural hub has become one of the many spokes in the city's spinning art wheel.
Perhaps as interesting and inspiring as the many exhibitions, shows and concerts which frequent the centre, is the centre´s history.


Once upon a time the centre was a convent for monks of the 'Recoletan' order, but it has had many different uses over the last 200 years from its use as a jail of political detainees, quarter, asylum and hospital. The area of Recoleta was populated as a result of the epidemics in 1871 (of rage and yellow fever) that affected the richest families, forcing them to retire from their residences in the south towards the northern sectors. The definitive consolidation has its fact in the work of the intendant Torcuato de Alvear, who constructed the Alvear Avenue, quickly filled with sumptuous palaces. Using the ground of the excavations of what is now Puerto Madero (ironically perhaps known by some as new Recoleta, however I prefer'little Dubai' as the square meterage ranges from USD10-15000sqmtr), they were able to fill up the lowlands, building parks and greens and transforming the swamps into (one) of the most elegant zones of the city.
The staue on the right makes reference to the famous "Don Quijote". Perhaps deemed a little to abstract, this wierdly gangly statue has since been moved to Avenida 9 Julio...
95% or 5% do you know?



The General Carlos María de Alvear Monument This imposing equestrian monument, designed by the talented French artist Bourdelle, can be found in the corner of Posadas Street and Avenida Alvear. There is an interesting view of it from the old river embankment at the Recoleta.



The statue, which arrived from France in 1925, rests on a pedestal of polished granite, the work of the architect Alejandro Bustillo (1889-1982).


 Monking About

The zone owes its name to the Convent of the Recoletos Descalzos --"barefoot" misionaries-- (founded on 1716), community of the Recoletos Friars. These monks constructed their monastery on an already existing small farm, which name had been given after the abundance of a particular kind of tree in that zone: "the Ombúes" (This small farm was located within the land map distributed by Don Juan de Garay in 1583).








Posadas of Portugal in Buenos Aires


In Pousadas there is always a story or a secret to tell, a legend or a tradition to recount. It is no different in Buenos Aires. Along what is now the back of  Recoleta cemetary, was at one time where workers were housed in "pulperías" (cantins.) It is suggested that on the far-side of the cementary, alongside the slaughter houses and cart tracks amongst the sweated folds of the labouring river-side men, tango was born. The numbers were hugely in the womens favour back then and so men vying for other "favours" would queue and wait and the cat and mouse dance of seduction was born (as well as quite a few new Porteños no doubt.)

Posadas Street in Buenos Aires is one of the most sought after areas to own in Buenos Aires, and is nestled between Alvear Avenue and Figueroa, at the apex of these two most prominant street names is Posadas and Palais de Glace, now a gallery, but at time an elegant ice skating rink. I heard that an ice skating rink was reopened in Recoleta recently, but as yet I have been unsuccessful in finding it, so more on this soon..
Eventually though ice skating became less popular (although possibly not in its Paris name-sake,) but most definitely with tango elegantly side-stepping the slums and entering the more public arena and culture, the days of slippery fun were at an end, and replaced with stern side-glances and quick tango flourishes.

The Portuguese at one time were rivalled on the seas only by the English and the Spaniards, their cultural marks can be seen in many countries and with this reference to


About the Posadas de Portugal
The Posadas de Portugal had their origin in the 40's, when the first Regional Posadas were built to provide visitors with board and accommodation in keeping with the style and traditions of each region.

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